Optimization and characterization of momordica cochinchinensis spreng (Gac fruit) extract utilized in developing cosmetic product

Abstract

Momordica cochinchinensis Spreng (Gac fruit) is a tropical plant which is rich in carotenoids, especially lycopene and ß-carotene. This study was conducted in order to determine the optimal extraction method of carotenoids from Gac aril using food-grade solvents (ethanol, acetic acid, ethyl acetate, virgin coconut oil, and extra virgin olive oil) and to utilize such extracts in cosmetics. Total phenol and flavonoid contents of the extracts were determined by Folin-Ciocalteu and AlCl3 assays. Antimicrobial activities of extracts were determined against four pathogens using macro broth dilution methods. The optimal condition to extract the highest amount of carotenoids was determined to be the following: using virgin coconut oil or extra virgin olive oil as solvents for 72 h at 25oC with a 1:150 solid to solvent ratio. Characterization of the products showed strong antioxidant capacity, as well as a low antimicrobial effect for Gac extracted in DMSO. In addition, HPLC and GC-FID showed a total ß-carotene, lycopene and fatty acid composition similar to previously reported works. In vivo test on human skin revealed that lip balm made from Gac expressed a minor effect in increasing skin moisture, but no significant effect on improving pigmentation and skin elasticity. Keywords: Gac fruit; Carotenoids; Optimization; Characterization; Lip balm